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One ring, three cities: New York, London & Montréal

The same familiar shape carries different local traditions. Follow the bagel from its Jewish roots to three cities with a taste of their own.

A shared history, many local expressions

Bagels grew out of the food culture of Jewish communities in Eastern Europe. A written reference from Kraków dates to 1610—earlier than the popular story about a bread invented to honor a king in 1683. Migration carried the craft to other cities, where bakers, customers and everyday habits gave it new forms. Today, a city name is a useful introduction to a tradition, not a guarantee that every bakery follows an identical recipe.

New York: a sturdy home for a schmear

Eastern European Jewish immigrants brought bagels to the United States in the late nineteenth century. In New York, neighborhood bakeries and appetizing counters helped make the bagel part of city life. The familiar New York ideal is a substantial ring with a chewy crust and a close, resilient crumb. It is well suited to cream cheese or a generously filled sandwich. Plain, sesame, poppy and Everything describe toppings or dough varieties within that tradition; they are not separate regional styles.

London: the East End beigel

In London’s East End, the spelling “beigel” keeps another part of that Jewish food history in view. Brick Lane is especially associated with plain, chewy beigels filled at the counter, including the familiar combination of salt beef and mustard. Beigel Bake opened there in 1974, within a much older East End Jewish food tradition. “London style” is best understood here as a reference to that local bakery culture: the shape, size and crumb still depend on the baker, and modern London shops also make other styles.

Montréal: the kettle and the wood-fired oven

Montréal has its own hand-rolled bagel tradition. Compared with a typical New York bagel, the classic Montréal version is usually smaller, with a denser crumb and a little more sweetness. At St-Viateur, the shaped dough is simmered in honey water, dressed with toppings and baked in a wood-burning oven. That process gives the bagel a distinct identity alongside New York’s familiar counter style. Sesame and poppy are classic choices. Recipes vary: the bakery’s regular plain and sesame versions include egg, while its whole-wheat version does not. A regional label alone does not tell you every ingredient, so check the actual bagel when dietary ingredients matter.

Compare the bread before you compare the fillings

A useful tasting starts with similar toppings and equally fresh bread. Look at the hole and the thickness of the ring, then notice the first bite: does the crust resist, crackle or soften? Pay attention to the crumb, sweetness and toasted flavor. Next, try the same simple spread on each. These are observations to make for yourself, not a competition with one correct winner. Freshness and the individual bakery can change the experience as much as the city name.

Bring the idea back to your own counter

For a first comparison at home, keep the filling simple: cream cheese makes the bread’s texture easy to notice. Then try smoked salmon, a crisp vegetable combination or your favorite breakfast stack. Bagel Folio currently organizes its recipe counter around nine New York-style bread varieties. The London and Montréal traditions in this story are invitations to explore; they are not additional bread baskets in the recipe collection yet.

From the recipe counter

Classic Cream Cheese

Smoked Salmon & Cream Cheese

Hummus & Cucumber

Explore the shops

Updated 2026-09-21